The Pantanal

When you think of the Amazon Rainforest in South America, do you picture jaguars, toucans, capybara, macaws, and other exotic wildlife? While it’s true that the Amazon Rainforest is home to more species than any other ecosystem, it’s extraordinarily difficult to spot much wildlife because the dark, dense foliage and leaf litter provides endless hiding spots.

So where can you spot these breathtaking creatures? Just next door, in the Pantanal!

What is the Pantanal?

The Pantanal is a region containing the world’s largest tropical wetland and the world’s largest flooded grasslands. It is located mostly within Brazil, but parts of it do extend into Paraguay and Bolivia. It covers an area around 195,000 square kilometers, or 282 times bigger than Singapore. This precious environment is recognized as a Biosphere Reserve and a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. 

Why is October the best time?

Each year from November to April, the Pantanal basin floods with rainwater, creating a superhighway for the millions of caiman who call the interior of Brazil home. In addition, piranha, giant river otters, and green anaconda thrive, as well as semiaquatic mammals such as capybara and tapir.

As the water recedes and the landscape becomes drier (May to October), you can see plenty of wildlife gathering at local waterholes and riverbanks, including the South American jaguar. The Pantanal is home to other fascinating mammals like the giant anteater, the lesser anteater (southern tamandua), capuchin monkeys, agouti, coatis, and crab-eating foxes. In addition, these wetlands are home to almost 500 species of birds, including the hyacinth macaw, toucans, kingfishers, jabiru storks, anhingas, spoonbills, greater rheas, curassows, and more.

Our favorite time to visit is in October, where you can still see jaguars along the Cuiaba River near Porto Joffre, but the occasional drizzle takes the edge off of the heat and the crowds of tourists have departed.

Notable species include (but definitely not limited to):

• Jaguar
• Hyacinth macaw
• Capybara
• Giant otter
• Marsh deer
• Jabiru
• Giant anteater
• Yacare caiman
• South American tapir
• Giant armadillo
• South American coati
• Toco toucan
• Crab-eating fox
• Roseate spoonbill
• Greater rhea
• Black howler monkey
• Yellow anaconda
• White-lipped peccary
• Tayra
• Southern tamandua (aka lesser anteater)
• Pampas deer
• Collared peccary
• Tufted capuchin monkey
• Bush dog (rarely seen)
• Maned wolf (rarely seen)
• Ocelot (rarely seen)
• Jaguarundi (rarely seen)
• Here are a few more notable bird species
• More than 500 bird species
  

Pantanal Itinerary

September 30, 2022:  You must arrive to Sao Paulo, Brazil by this evening. Hotel recommendations in Sao Paulo will be given, but hotel night is not included in case people arrive early and choose to stay in the city. Sao Paulo is the MOST connected airport in South America. Cheap to get to from the USA and easy to reach from Dubai or Europe. 

October 1, 2022:  Today the group flies from GRU (Sao Paolo airport) [flight included] to Cuiaba (CGB). Upon arrival, the group will be picked up and driven to the Pantanal. Stay at a gorgeous lodge (Aymara) for 2 nights. One of the single best locations for birdwatching in the Pantanal and owned by the guy that literally wrote the book on the birds of the Pantanal. The 2-hour drive to the property you will see an amazing array of animals from the road. [LD included]

October 2, 2022:  Explore grounds of Aymara Lodge to see some of the 335 bird species that have been identified on the property as well as tamandua (lesser anteater), tapir, coati, giant anteaters, caiman, and so much more. [BLD included]. 

October 3, 2022:  Drive to Porto Joffre and stay in a floating hotel called Millennium (the best on the river). There’ll be good wildlife viewing from the road on the drive to the river. Once you reach the river, you’ll take boats to the floating hotel (about 30 minutes up the river). The floating hotel (“floatel”) is spacious and will be moored to the river shore far from civilization. While you will be able to see some species while you’re on the boat, safaris are done on an aluminum fast boat that will take you into small tributaries, very close to the wildlife. [BLD included]

October 4, 2022:  Jaguar safaris by boat in the morning and afternoon. Between the morning and afternoon/evening safari you will be brought back to the floatel for lunch and rest. Staying at the “floatel” saves about 30 minutes each way each time you go out to spot the jaguars (thus saving about 2 hours each day while getting you out earlier and allowing you to stay out later each safari).  [BLD included]   

October 5, 2022:  Jaguar safaris by boat in the morning and afternoon.  During today and the previous day (4 safaris) you will see jaguars (usually quite close) as well as a plethora of other species. [BLD included]

October 6, 2022:  to Santa Rosa lodge on the river. This lodge is located on the river. It’s a lovely lodge with a pool and amazing food. On the property, there are usually Toco toucans, jabirus, capybaras, capuchin monkeys, and much more. It allows you some close-up (yet still wild) experiences with these beautiful species.  [BLD included]

October 7, 2022:  to Rio Claro lodge. This place is located on a small tributary. On the grounds, there are many species that you won’t have seen elsewhere. And this afternoon and the following morning you’ll be taken out on a short boat ride to have special photographic experiences with jabiru, giant otters, hawks, and caiman. These animals are wild, but will often come up to the boat for you to get great photos of them. [BLD included] 

October 8, 2022:  Drive 2 hours to Cuiaba airport and fly (2:10hrs) from CGB to GRU. Spend the night near the airport in Sao Paolo (Marriott or Pullman).  [B included] [Flight & hotel is included]

Please visit our photos from the Pantanal and another of our personal Pantanal albums. Here is a good NatGeo article about the Pantanal for further reading. 

The Cloud Forest of Mindo, Ecuador

The Mindo-Tandayapa Cloud Forest is a unique ecosystem in Ecuador that’s known worldwide for its biodiversity and birding. The lush subtropical forest provides a mystical environment to roam around and pursue adventure, in addition to finding many species of birds, plants, and other animals. 

Mindo, Ecuador is part of a cloud forest ecosystem, which is characterized by the persistent low-lying clouds that deliver lots of moisture and hence thick plant growth. Located along the slopes of the Pichincha Volcano, Mindo’s dense and misty forest canopy is full of life. 

Mindo-Tandayapa, Ecuador, is one of the premier birding destinations in the world! More than 500 different types of birds have been spotted in an area with a diameter of 20km. In fact, Mindo is regularly awarded the annual world record for the most bird species counted within a 24-hour period (the Audubon Christmas Bird Count).

The biodiversity in Mindo doesn’t end with its many bird species. The Mindo Cloud Forest is also known for its numerous butterflies, orchids, and bromeliads. Meanwhile, Andean bears, capuchin monkeys, and even rare pumas all call Mindo their home. 

Here are some of my personal photos from the Mindo-Tandayapa region (note that I am very much a newbie bird-photographer). You will visit all the locations where these photos were taken.

Mindo Itinerary

October 9, 2022:  Fly from Sao Paolo to Quito. Flight is not included and will cost approximately $200-300 depending on how early you book. Hotel night in Quito is included (Wyndham near the airport is ~2400m altitude so there should be no issues with altitude sickness).  [B included]

October 10, 2022:  Our guide will pick you up at the hotel and take you for a brief visit to Yanacocha Reserve (3350m) where there are some very special birds including the swordbill hummingbird. Thereafter you’ll be driving downhill to stay at the world-famous Bellavista Cloud Forest Mountain Lodge (2200m) [again, there should be no problems with altitude at that height]. There will be a birding tour in the afternoon. This lodge is set deep in the cloud forest and you will be surrounded by flora and fauna that few people experience. There are 10km of trails on the property and your guide will point out scores of bird species during your walks. Though it is the dry season, it is the rainforest and you should be prepared for some rain. [BLD included]

October 11, 2022:  6am guided birding/wildlife/flora tour then breakfast and then 9am birding/wildlife/flora tour, followed by lunch. You’ll depart after lunch to drive to the next lodge. This next lodge was made by a photographer for photographers. He has created picturesque settings that birds visit for food. He will also arrange for bat photography after sunset for those that desire (6 speedlights and a motion trigger that you will be able to use).  There are so many hummingbirds on the property that they will certainly land on you while you’re taking photos of them. It’s GREAT fun. This is the number one place to see the famous plate-billed mountain-toucan and the very rare hoary puffleg hummingbird. [BL included].

October 12, 2022:  Photos from the blinds and on the grounds before breakfast. After a leisurely breakfast you’ll be driven to the next lodge which is deep in yet another type of cloud forest set at about 1550m. There are 6 kilometers of trails on the grounds that you will be shown by your guide.  [BLD included]

October 13, 2022:  You’ll depart in the early morning (dark) hours to see the famous Andean cock-of-the-rock (red subspecies) as well as the rare and difficult to see antpittas (up to 5 species in the area). You’ll return to the lodge for lunch and a visit to town for a visit to the butterfly sanctuary, orchid garden, and shopping.   [BLD included]

October 14, 2022:  Visit the lower altitude [330m] rainforest areas of Silanche and Milpe to see even more species of birds that you haven’t seen yet. Thereafter you’ll be driven back to Quito to stay at the Wyndham by the airport. An afternoon/evening visit to Quito is possible and can be arranged at an extra minimal cost for those that have the desire. [BL included]

San Cristobal Island, Galapagos

The Galápagos Islands are considered one of the world’s foremost destinations for wildlife-viewing–and wildlife photography. These UNESCO World Heritage islands, isolated 1,000km off the coast of Ecuador, are home to diverse and unique flora & fauna–many are found nowhere else on the planet. You’ll take plenty of boat excursions to reach the treasured, remote vistas of this otherworldly volcanic archipelago.

This portion of the itinerary is centered on and around the island of San Cristobal during one of the best overall times of year for wildlife viewing (on land and underwater). You’ll be staying in the main city of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, which also serves as the capital of the Galapagos Province of Ecuador.

This island is where, in 1835, Charles Darwin first disembarked in the Galapagos on the voyage of the H.M.S. Beagle. His time in the Galapagos and the samples he collected here greatly informed his theory of evolution. You can see the statue of Darwin from high atop Frigatebird Hill (Cerro Tijeretas) or hike out to see it close-up on your way to snorkel in the aquamarine bay. You’ll have a west-facing view of the sunset, both from a beach in town (Punta Carola) and a nearby beach, La Loberia, just a short taxi ride away. Both beaches house large sea lion colonies and are a true joy to experience at sunset.

Most of these boat trips will be combined with lunch and time on a beautiful nearby beach, with a bit of time for walking, resting, or swimming.

Want to see a different side of this island? We’ll also visit the lush highlands of San Cristobal to spend time at Galapaguero de Cerro Colorado, marveling at the giant tortoises at this breeding center.

This town offers some wonderful educational activities, including the Interpretation Center, where you learn that the history of the Galapagos is even stranger–and more scandalous–than fiction. Follow the path past the Interpretation Center up to Frigatebird Hill for a gorgeous view of the bay and Kicker Rock.

There are a couple of beaches to choose from should you want to bask like a sea lion, and you can even snorkel in Darwin Bay over by Frigate Bird Hill (bring your buddy, though!) This town has lots of waterfront bars and cafes, and plenty of opportunities to shop for souvenirs. There is also the opportunity for Stand-up Paddleboard (SUP) tours of the bay.

For a free download of the concise field guide we created for the Galapagos please click this link. It’s filled with all the historical and ecological information one might need and will certainly get you excited for this part of the journey. 

San Cristobal Itinerary

October 15, 2022:  You’ll fly ~2 hours from Quito to San Cristobal Galapagos (SCY) [flight not included but shouldn’t cost more than ~$200 depending on when you book]. You’ll be picked up at the airport and driven to Galapagos Sunset Hotel (8-minute drive)

October 16, 2022:  On your first full day we will head to Isla Lobos–that’s right, the Island of Sea Lions! We’ll share the waters with these playful sea lions (or, more accurately, they’ll share the water with us!) and perhaps get a glimpse of them gliding around in their element. Don’t let their clumsy behavior on land fool you–they are amongst the most elegant and agile creatures on the planet. You’ll also take a walk on the small island itself, which is a favorite nesting spot for frigate birds and blue-footed boobies.  [B included and a light lunch will be served on the boat]

October 17, 2022:  Today you’ll visit Española Island. This is one of the oldest islands in the archipelago, Espanola provides an opportunity to see the waved albatross, as well as a particularly colorful population of marine iguanas. Blue-footed boobies and Nazca boobies are plentiful, as well as sea lions and all sorts of marine life! Aside from a few breeding pairs on mainland Ecuador, this island is the only place in the world to see them. There can be thousands on the island in the month of October.  [BL included, light lunch on the boat]

October 18, 2022:  This morning you will be driven to the highlands of the island for a visit to see the famed Galapagos tortoises. You’ll also have lunch at a ranch/farm. You’ll have the afternoon free to explore the beaches and areas around the town.

October 19, 2022:  Today you’ll visit Kicker Rock  (aka León Dormido); obviously the British thought this monolith looked like a shoe, while the Ecuadorians thought it looked more like a sleeping lion–what do you see? Kicker Rock, the eroded cone of an extinct volcano, is a local favorite for snorkeling and diving*. This is a great space to see spotted eagle rays and sharks–even hammerhead sharks if you’re very lucky! But don’t forget to look up, too, as the towering rock formations are home to blue-footed boobies, frigate birds, brown pelicans, and more.  (*Divers can opt to upgrade this activity and turn it into a diving trip, although the general consensus from past guests is that snorkeling trips are preferable.)    [B, light lunch on boat included]

October 20, 2022:  Depart for the mainland (Quito) for your flight home OR you can join on the optional extension you’ll see below. 

Optional extension to Isabela Island and Santa Cruz Island, Galapagos

This optional extension includes the two other islands that visitors can stay on. Both are significantly different from San Cristobal so a visit to these islands is warranted, though not necessary if you don’t have the time. Isabela is the largest island of the Galapagos yet far less populated than Santa Cruz and San Cristobal. Here you’ll be staying near a wonderful beach and there are some spectacular excursions (see below). Thereafter, you’ll go Santa Cruz for a short visit. Santa Cruz is (by far) the most populated and least charming of the islands. But there are some good things to do while on the island. 

Isabela Island and Santa Cruz Island Itinerary

October 20, 2022:  Flight to Isabela (flight cost will be about $300 depending on when you book) . You’ll be driven to the hotel (~10 minutes) at Cally Hotel. The afternoon is free to explore the beach and surrounding areas. [B included].

October 21, 2022:  Today will be an excursion to the most otherworldly part of the Galapagos—Los Tunules (aka The Tunnels). You’ll take a boat to visit these lava formations with cacti growing from the rock. You’ll get up close with blue-footed boobies while exploring the rocky area. Thereafter (or maybe beforehand) you’ll go to another area for snorkeling with sea turtles (sometimes dozens of them will be very close to you). You may also see seahorses, reef sharks, and other wildlife in the water.  [B, light lunch on boat included]

October 22, 2022:  Today is one of the shortest day-trips, to a place called the “Tintoreras” (which means white-tipped reef shark in Spanish). You’ll take a small boat out to an island to get up close to Galapagos penguins. Thereafter you’ll disembark on a small island for some close encounters with a variety of animal species. Finally, there’ll be an opportunity for snorkeling. There are a number of different snorkeling spots and it depends on the tides as to which one you’ll do. They’re all great fun.  [B included]

October 23, 2022:  Today is a choose-your-own-adventure day. You can choose to hike up Sierra Negra volcano which is moderately difficult if you go all the way to the end of the hike or you can do a kayaking (and snorkeling) trip in and around the Tintoreras. Or you can rent a bicycle and ride to/toward the Wall of Tears where you’ll see wild Galapagos tortoises along the way as well as a host of other species. You can probably squeeze in a couple of these adventures or even do one in the afternoon the day before (22 October). 

October 24, 2022:  Today you’ll take the best and most comfortable speedboat about 2 hours to the island of Santa Cruz. While it may be a little rough, it is the fastest and easiest way to get to the town of Puerto Ayora. Upon arrival, you’ll be picked up and driven to the highlands to see wild Galapagos tortoises on a ranch in the highlands. These are the largest of the tortoise species that you’ll experience and the setting makes for some excellent photographs.  [B included]

October 25, 2022:  In the morning (timing is tide dependent) you can visit (~40-minute walk) the long white sand beach of Tortuga Bay, a perfect place to photograph marine iguanas. Though you’ll have seen hundreds of marine iguanas on other islands, this beach is quite picturesque.  The afternoon is free to shop and explore or even re-visit the highlands and the tortoises.  [B included]

October 26, 2022:  Transfer to airport (Baltra/GPS about 1 hour in total) then fly to Quito (UIO). Your flight to the mainland should be around $200 and is not included.    [B included]

Click here for a complete guide to each Galapagos excursion.